What is vegan leather?

Vegan leather is a cruelty-free, animal-free alternative to conventional leather. The term is used to describe any textile that mimics the look, feel and properties of leather but is not derived from animals.

Conventional leather is sourced from animal hides, mainly cattle, which involves raising and slaughtering animals. Ethical concerns about factory farming and inhumane treatment make vegan leather an appealing alternative.

There are environmental and social considerations too. The production of conventional leather has been linked to deforestation, particularly in the Amazon, where land – in some cases Indigenous land – is cleared for cattle grazing. Cattle also produce methane, a potent greenhouse gas that contributes to climate change.

Additionally, leather processing and tanning typically involves toxic chemicals and heavy metals such as chromium. These harm workers’ health and can pollute surrounding water sources.

In contrast, vegan leather requires substantially less water and land to make and produces much fewer emissions. The exact numbers depend on the kind of vegan leather and how it is produced.

And that’s the catch: just because it’s called ‘vegan leather’ doesn’t mean it’s automatically good for the planet. In fact, the term itself can be misleading. Portugal went as far as banning the term in 2022, although sceptics say the move may have been to protect the country’s conventional, and considerable, leather industry.

What is vegan leather made of?

The biggest issue is that many mainstream vegan leathers are made from plastic, which is derived from fossil fuels. If you are choosing vegan leather for environmental reasons, chances are petroleum-based products aren’t what you had in mind.

Two of the most common synthetic vegan leathers are made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane (PU) leather. Both materials release poisonous gases and chemicals when they decay. They also shed microplastics. These minute particles get everywhere and are a real problem for humans and the environment.

While not all vegan leathers are entirely plastic, many are at least partially coated in it. Most conventional leather is, too. So whether it’s vegan or not, leather products often take centuries to break down due to their plastic content and chemical treatments.

But before you throw out your faux leather boots in despair, there’s good news. Innovative brands are moving toward plant-based, biodegradable alternatives.

Here are some of the most interesting (and sustainable) options currently available.

Pineapple leather

Pineapple leather is made from pineapple leaf fibers. The leaves, usually discarded after harvest, are transformed into a strong, leather-like material.

Sold under the brand name Piñatex, pineapple leather was one of the first plant-based leathers on the market. It isn’t entirely biodegradable because it contains some plastic in the coating. However, Ananas Anam, the company behind the material, says it is working on a biobased substitute.

Cork leather

Cork leather is made from the bark of cork oak trees, which can be harvested without cutting the trees down. The bark regenerates, absorbing carbon dioxide in the process.

Lightweight, water-resistant and naturally textured, cork leather is often used for accessories such as wallets and bags but is increasingly finding its way into shoes as well.

Is cork leather 100% plastic-free? It’s hard to say. Not all brands are transparent about additional materials they use. If they’re not loudly declaring ‘no plastic’, chances are, some is involved.

Mushroom leather

Technically, it’s mycelium leather (since it’s made from mycelium, which is the root-like structure of fungi). But ‘mushroom leather’ sounds cooler. 

Several manufacturers are pioneering this material, and it’s been used by Stella McCartney and Hermès. 

It’s not always entirely plastic-free either, though, with a few exceptions. California-based MycoWorks has created and commercialized a low-carbon mushroom leather that is also plastic free.

Cactus leather

Prickly pear (or nopal) cacti may not seem like the obvious choice for a material that comes into close contact with your skin. But the resulting leather is described as smooth, tough and more breathable than other vegan leathers.

The cactus plant itself thrives in arid conditions with minimal water. Only mature cactus leaves are harvested, so the plant can keep growing and, like cork trees, continue absorbing carbon dioxide. These factors make cactus leather one of the more sustainable vegan leathers, although it has still been found to have a protective plastic coating. It is used mainly for clothes and accessories, although Mercedes-Benz trialed it in the interior of a concept electric car in 2022.

Bacteria leather

This cutting-edge material is made by microbes. Microbes are tiny bacteria that produce cellulose, which is then processed into a flexible, leather-like material. The material has a comparatively small carbon footprint, in part because it requires no land clearing or toxic chemicals, and the bacteria themselves are not methane emitters like livestock.

Bacteria leather is in the process of being scaled up, but sustainability-focused brands like Denmark’s GANNI are already experimenting with it. Unlike many of its plant-based competitors, all the types of bacteria leather we found are free from PVC and PU, making it a really promising option.

There’s even a version being developed at Imperial College London that dyes itself. If successful, it could help tackle another major problem in the leather industry: the environmental impact of synthetic dyes.

How long does vegan leather last?

A common criticism of vegan leather is that it doesn’t last as long as traditional leather. While synthetic vegan leathers typically last two to five years, some plant-based alternatives outperform that. High-quality mushroom leather, when well-maintained, can have a lifespan similar to animal leather. Pineapple and cactus leather also stand up well in durability tests.

Ultimately, though, the most sustainable option is to buy less, buy better and buy secondhand. Whether it’s vegan or not, choosing a high-quality piece that lasts is always better than a trendy one that falls apart after a season.